You couldn’t have missed the long diamond, ruby and emerald strands encircling Aishwarya Rai’s neck or the diamond and emerald rings adorning Abhishek Bachchan’s fingers in Umrao Jaan. From designer Anna Singh’s flowing yards to the stone stunners on leading lady Aishwarya, the entire look of Umrao Jaan exudes an old-world charm. Though the film is hardly being heard of, post-release, the opulent period look has been a talking point.

Bindiya Goswami, the film-maker’s wife, had got in touch with Vijay and Sandeep of Golcha’s Jewels for Umrao Jaan. “Our designs fitted the bill perfectly. The Mughal look that they wanted was very similar to our creations and perhaps that’s why they preferred us,” an excited Vijay tells GoodLife.

“There was equal emphasis on both heavy and light jewellery. While the dances required heavy pieces, the other scenes had lesser or very light jewellery,” points out Vijay.

Uncut diamonds, tourmalines, firoza, rubies, south pearls and emeralds have been set in gold for the various creations used in the film. Chokers, long neckpieces, navratna necklaces, long earrings, rani haar, maang tika, finger rings, payals and kurta buttons comprise most of the ornaments. “There is also a lot of exquisite minakari work that we have done on the pieces,” he adds.

Bindiya Goswami and Anna Singh acted as guides through the whole process.

One particular ornament that Shabana Azmi sported in Umrao Jaan is a favourite with the designer duo. “It is a choker with rubies, emerald carving and rose-cut Golconda diamonds,” reveals Vijay. Another favourite is Abhishek’s set of three finger rings.

“Everybody — from J.P. Dutta to Abhishek Bachchan and Shabana Azmi to Aishwarya Rai and Ayesha Jhulka — was very pleased with the jewellery. Shabanaji liked the designs so much that she bought a few pieces after the shooting was over,” reveals Vijay.

Though Umrao Jaan was the Golchas’ first brush with a Bollywood movie, they are definitely not new to the industry. Their client list boasts big tinsel town names like Sridevi, Raveena Tandon, Kirron Kher and, of course, Shabana. “We had also designed Raveena’s wedding jewellery,” says Vijay.

Vijay and Sandeep are now reaping rich rewards for a decade’s dedication to a passion and profession. Their speciality lies in the antique look and most of their designs are set in gold. While there are pieces starting from Rs 10,000, the price tag can read in crores for larger items.

After Umrao Jaan, Golcha’s Jewels has received film offers from other Bollywood biggies, including a UTV production that had to be refused for paucity of time.

“Designing for a film is a full-time commitment; it’s a large investment and requires maintaining an inventory for the whole period of shooting,” says Vijay. “But there will be other bigger offers, I’m sure.”